My family and I are turning our 7 ft × 7 ft walk-in closet into a full bathroom, and I’m documenting every single step so you can do the same thing in your own house without paying a contractor $10,000+.
Today was a fun day of actual construction: framing the wall that will sit right on the edge of the new shower pan.
This is the most important wall in the whole bathroom because it has to be perfectly plumb, perfectly square, and strong enough to hold grab bars and tile later. The good news? If you can use a tape measure and a drill, you can do this.
Tools You’ll Need (Beginner-Friendly List)
Tape measure
4-foot level (or 2-foot, but 4-foot is better)
Pencil
Speed square
Circular saw or miter saw (I used a cheap Kobalt circular saw)
Drill/Driver + impact driver (one tool can do both)
3″ construction screws (I used GRK)
1-5/8″ fine-thread drywall screws (for metal studs if you use them)
Stud finder
Safety glasses & ear protection
Optional but awesome: Oscillating multi-tool for small cuts, laser level
Materials I Used
2×4 kiln-dried studs (straight ones only!)
Shower pan (already installed in previous prep)
Step-by-Step Guide – How I Framed the Wall
Snap the layout lines
I used a chalk line to mark exactly where the new wall would sit —butt up to the edge of the shower pan flange so the backer board and tile will land perfectly flush later.
Cut the bottom plate
2×4 cut to length. I made it exactly the width of the opening so the wall is tight against both sides.
Cut the top plate
Same length as bottom plate. This gets screwed into the ceiling joists.
Find and mark the ceiling joists
Used a stud finder and then confirmed with a finish nail. Marked every joist so I knew where to screw the top plate.
Cut the studs
Measured from bottom plate to ceiling in three places (walls are never perfectly level). Took the shortest measurement and subtracted ⅛ inch for easy fitting. Cut all studs the same length.
Assemble on the floor
Laid top and bottom plate parallel, marked stud locations every 16″ on center (starting from one end). Stood studs up and screwed with 3″ construction screws — two screws per end, driven at slight angles (toe-screwed) for maximum strength.
Stand the wall up
Tipped the whole assembly up into place. It was snug, so I tapped it with a hammer to seat it.
Plumb and square and screw it in
Used the 4-foot level on both faces to get it perfectly plumb. Shimmed where needed with cedar shims.
Screwed top plate into every joist with 3″ screws.
Add blocking for future grab bars and accessories
Total time: About 3.5 hours working alone, taking photos, and triple-checking everything.
Total cost for this wall: ~$55 in lumber and screws.
Next post: Installing cement backer board and waterproofing — the step most people mess up and pay for later with leaks.
If you’re following along at home and have questions, drop them in the comments — I answer every single one.
Happy building!
— Steve
CT Home Repair and Tutoring LLC
